Sunday Sauce - Food Blog with Italian Recipes

Brooklyn Bronx Pizza Crawl - Sunday Sauce Visits DiFaras, Motorino and Louie Ernies

Posted by Jonny

Not even 24 hours after the Thanksgiving feast, I went on a Brooklyn pizza crawl with my sister Chessy, Uncle James and Cousin Jimmy. We visited two of Brooklyn's vaunted pizzerias - DiFara's and Motorino. And to top it off, later that evening I decided to drive down the Hutch and paid a visit to Ernie and Louie's in the Bronx. So yes, three pizzerias in one day makes for a crawl, and the gory details have been noted.

I will follow up with a longer, more detailed post about the experience, but for now enjoy the photo gallery and video.

 

VIDEO FROM DiFARA'S PIZZERIA

Frank Pepe's Pizza Yonkers...Again....

We received this email the other night from someone and I found it rather confusing/amusing and worthy of posting. I think Nik and I have been rather forthright in our support of Frank Pepe's Pizzeria in Yonkers and we were very positive in our review of the place. However that hasn't stopped the flood of emails and some comments on the blog blasting the place. I've even had people call my cel phone telling me how bad they thought the pizza was. But still, Nik and I maintained our support.

Then we get this email from "Janice"...(edited down)

My family and I just ate at Pepe's in Yonkers and it was fantastic.  We had the clam pie and the regular cheese pie and they were both great.  The place was packed with people and our service and Pizza were super. 

 

I understand that you are not really a food critic but rather a blogger but you really should not let emails change your review of this pizzeria.  We almost did not go after I read your comments about "how many people wrote you to complain about the pizza".  I am glad that I did not listen to this advice since we truly loved this thin crusty well done pizza.  It was a gourmet pizza at a very reasonable price.

 There are many people that are "negative" or are biased since they do not want a new place to succeed.  After looking at Pepe's history, which spans 85 years this new place is producing a superior Pizza for the area, after only a few weeks of being opened.

END

Let's take this piece by piece.....

1. I understand that you are not really a food critic but rather a blogger...

Yes, we are not food critics. Never purported to be. We enjoy food and talk about it online and have developed a readership by doing so. Food critics probably won't be around in a few years, as the web has democratized the restaurant review business. More on that in another post though, we're talking pizza now

2. ... but you really should not let emails change your review of this pizzeria..."

WHEN DID WE CHANGE OUR REVIEW OF THE PIZZERIA?????

3. ...We almost did not go after I read your comments about "how many people wrote you to complain about the pizza. I am glad that I did not listen to this advice.."

ADVICE? The only advice that we gave was telling people they need to go for themselves and judge with their own taste buds. This is actually what we wrote...

In closing, I'll put it on the record that Nik and I want Frank Pepe's to succeed (and it looks like it's doing so because the parking lot is always jammed). Why? I am tired of driving into NYC, Brooklyn or out to NJ to get killer wood or coal-fired pizza. So trust me, no one wants this place to succeed more than us. 

Frank Pepe's Clam Pizza, as photographed by Jonny Mangia

Pizza alla Tonno - Pizza with Tuna

Back during the days of wine and roses, Jonny Mangia and myself ventured upon one of the most eclectically delicious slices of pizza while on vacation in the mother country, and specifically, in Florence.  While walking hand in hand upon the cobblestone streets of that richly historic slice of the world, we wandered into one of those bustling pizzerias that had sheet after crunchy sheet of pizza with different toppings.  Because we were so hungry at the time (what's new?) we quickly decided on a slice of the pizza alla tonno.  As we stood there in the street, we took one hungry bite after the next of the same slice of pizza (how romantic), the crunchy crust, the zesty tomato, the oil of the fish dripping down the sides of our mouths... it was pure heaven.  Years later, I knew trying to replicate those flavors on this side of the pond would be close to impossible, but if I could just get close... Then I had an idea.

Pizza alla tonno

I've been making amazing Italian tuna sandwiches for years now, after Mom B. told me about Genova brand "tonna", or Italian tuna, which is premium yellowfin tuna in olive oil.  Although the cans are more expensive than your run of the mill Chicken of the Sea, they are worth every penny.  The olive oil is of an obviously higher quality and the tuna is fresher and tastier.  Usually, I prepare it in the Italian tuna tradition, which is mixing the tonna with its oil with a little salt, pepper and chopped onion and spreading onto Italian bread.  If I'm feeling ambitious, I may add chopped olives or capers to the mix, but it is just as good straight out of the can.  So one night, I tried to replicate the famed pizza alla tonno in Florence by dolloping some of the Genova brand tonno on a grandma slice (its crust was sturdy enough to hold the oil of the tonna) and presto! I had the tastiest tonna slice that I've had here in the states.  Thought I'd share with any tonna fans out there!

Another Update on Frank Pepe Pizza Yonkers

After last week's positive review of Frank Pepe's pizza in Yonkers on Central Avenue, we continue to get inundated with emails, mostly negative, about the pizza. Here is the latest to come through the transom:

From Bob in Yonkers:

I live close to the new Frank Pepe's in Yonkers and have been waiting anxiously for it to open. Now that it is open my family and friends were totally disappointed with the service and the pizza. We were there twice (hoping the second time would be better). We ordered 4 different pies and not one was worth ever going back for. Sorry Frank Pepe but you need to stay in Connecticut. We New Yorkers know our pizza.

Folks, we're standing by the positive review, but damn, there are quite a few people out there who aren't digging this pizza whatsoever.

Update: Frank Pepe's Pizzeria Yonkers Opens!

Updated Wednesday November 4th 1:00pm:

Nikki and I wanted to update the blog because we have received A LOT of feedback in the past 36 hours regarding our review on the Frank Pepe's Yonkers opening. Let it be clear that Nikki and I stand by our positive review, as we feel that the clam pie was excellent and the original tomato pie was very good. However, we would not be able to maintain our credibility without acknowledging all of the negative reviews that are coming in, especially with regard to their tomato and mozz pie.  Below you will find a few snippets from comments we received via email. The first two quotes are negative ones, the third quote is a positive one we just received from Allie Vee, who is a patron of Pepe's in Fairfield and New Haven and visited the Yonkers branch this weekend. 

 Commenter Stephan F:

On the positive,  the tomato pie was tangy with a nice bite of what tastes like romano cheese. However there were too many negatives...the crust was too thick and chewy especially toward the point of the slice -there is no excuse for subpar crust imo given the coal oven. Overall both pies were way too greasy.

Commenter Gus L:

"I have been going to Pepe's for many years and after stopping in yesterday for a trial, the Yonkers pizza only made me disappointed and eager to get back to the original ovens on Wooster St. in New Haven. 
The pizza NY (with mozzarella) is way off... the quality in New Haven is 100% better than Yonkers... overall it was greasy,doughy, and the mozz tastes like it is from the A&P."

Commenter Allie Vee:

I went to Pepe's Yonkers over the weekend to check on the progress and saw they were opened on Sunday. When Fairfield opened a couple of years ago, the pizza was not up to par. It is today...Fairfield is excellent. My point is, the coal ovens must be seasoned with 100s of pies being made per day. The pizza was good, the staff is learning. OK - so what's my point - give it time...I would guarantee it will be the closest experience to New Haven.

In closing, remember that pizza preference is personal.  So try it for yourselves and let us know your thoughts.

Review: Frank Pepe's Pizzeria Yonkers: It's Open!

Pizza Review for Frank Pepe's Pizza in Yonkers by Sunday Sauce blog.

PIZZA NIRVANA IN YONKERS: Finally....thankfully...Frank Pepe's pizzeria has arrived in Westchester County. Nikki and I recently attended the Friends & Family opening of Frank Pepe's on Central Avenue in Yonkers and can happily report that the pizza was well worth the wait and anticipation.  Bottom line - it's excellent. 

We sampled two different pies (this is not a slice shop, folks), including their famous clam pie, while watching the pizza men pull a variety of other pies from their two gargantuan, coal-fired ovens.  Each pie looking the picture of pizza perfection.

Clam pie at Frank Pepe's Yonkers

THE LEGENDARY CLAM PIE: We were particularly anxious to try Pepe's clam pie.  I have had a love affair with clam pizzas since I first tasted one at Lombardi's back in 1999. Since Frank Pepe's version has attained legendary status, I had been hunkering for some time to try one, but never had the opportunity to travel to the original Frank Pepe's in New Haven, CT, for a bite (actually we did stop there a few years ago on the way home from Block Island, but it was closed : (

Close-up of Frank Pepe's clam pie.

Underside of clam pizza showing beautiful coal-fired char.

A SIT-DOWN WITH A REAL PEPE: Fortunately for us, Frank Pepe's grandson, Francis Roselli, was on hand to provide commentary on the colorful history of Pepe's pizza and specifically, the clam pie, as Nikki sampled and Idevoured the product. According to Mr. Roselli, the original Pepe's pizzeria in New Haven had offered clams on the half shell as an appetizer.  Sometime during the 1960's, Frank Pepe came up with the idea of offering the clams as a pizza topping.  Little did he know that this slight twist on the menu would make history, as the clam pie would eventually be considered Frank Pepe's masterpiece.

For the bird lovers...Frank Pepe's pizza with chicken.

FAT, MEATY CHUNKS OF CLAMS: A sight to behold, the clam pie was laden with healthy chunks of fresh clam goodness which was supported by a smoky, charred crust. This style of crispy crust was key as it perfectly counterbalanced the meatiness and moistness of the clams.  The copious amount of clams were highlighted by a perfect amount of garlic, oregano and olive oil. This delicious pie was head and shoulders above the alleged "best clam pie in the USA" offered at the Tarry Lodge in Westchester (for more on the shortcomings of the Tarry Lodge's clam pizza, click here).

Frank Pepe's Original Tomato Pie

"Strata" view of tomato pie. Thin and delicious.

FRANKIE'S FAVORITE: As Nikki and I scanned the menu to find another pie to taste, Mr. Rosselli cut our search short. "I have a special pie for you to taste." Ten minutes later we were treated to a tantalizing site of steaming, richly red tomatoes atop a charred pie crust.  This "original tomato pie" was Frank Pepe's favorite, consisting of garlic, tomatoes, oregano, olive oil and grated cheese -- simple, understated brilliance.  Amongst the flurry of nontraditional toppings offered at many of today's pizzerias, such as artichoke, butternut squash and gorgonzola, Pepe's original tomato pie sticks to tradition and lets the basic ingredients, the dough and the oven make its statement. Another plus was that the absence of a heavier, melted cheese, like mozzarella, gave the pizza a lighter, airier vibe.  

Frank Pepe sausage pie

Pie sliding out of the mammoth oven

THE FIRE OF THE GODS: A word on Frank Pepe's would not be complete without mention of their coal ovens.  Coal ovens, which are a rarity nowadays due to the environmental restrictions in NYC and the five boroughs, are permissible in Westchester County, so Pepe's was thankfully able to recreate, brick by brick, the original oven in New Haven that has been producing their pies for over 80 years. Pepe's coal ovens will be running 24/7 and use approximately 1.5 tons of coal per week. Before you envision a black plume forming over Central Ave, you can relax because they are burning a special type of low-emission coal. The ovens also require a deft operating touch, so the pizza men have been training  at Pepe's in Fairfield CT for the last 3 months.

One of the two 30,000 lb ovens at Frank Pepe Yonkers. 

Pepe's Inferno...the coal burns bright.

IN CLOSING: The anticipation for the opening of Frank Pepe's has swelled for over a year. Well it''s here, it's open and it's time to get your fanny's there. This is a breath of fresh air and worth the wait, especially when you consider the deplorable pizza scene in lower Westchester.  I'm sure Pepe's won't affect the few great local slice shops ala Joe's of  Fleetwood and Sal's in Mamaroneck who turn out great product, offer slices and are conveniently located, but I have a feeling that Pepe's is going to take a chunk of business from  Johnny's of Mount Vernon who is the de facto "destination" pizza shop in the lower rim of Westchester (still can't figure out why). 

Let the games begin...

FRANK PEPE PIZZERIA NAPOLETANA

1955 Central Avenue, Yonkers, NY 914-961-8284  (shameless plug, diagonal from Curto's Appliances)

YONKERS, NY

Sunday - Thursday … 11:30 AM - 11:00 PM

Friday & Saturday … 11:30 AM - MIDNIGHT

World Series: NY Pizza vs. Philly Cheesesteaks

Our World Series: NY Pizza vs. Philly Cheesesteaks,

image courtesy of Lohud.com

While the Yankees - Phillies World Series will be extremely entertaining as the true best teams in baseball battle in the Fall Classic, another clash will be taking place with just as much passion involved - bragging rights between the cities as to who has the better food. Liz Johnson from Lohud.com (Westchester County's local news source) has collaborated with Patricia Talorico from a paper in the Philly metro area in a battle pitting the NY pizza versus the Philly cheesesteak. In their contest, NY'ers are asked to submit strategies to improve upon the Philly cheesesteak, and people from Philly's corridor are challenged to create a better pie than those found in NY.

To submit cheesesteak strategies: click here and post in Liz's comments section. 

To submit ways to improve upon the NY pizza: click here

Jonny Mangia's opinion: I traveled to Philadelphia in 2001 to interview Pat, the owner of Pat's King of Steaks. Afterwards, I sampled a few of his cheesesteaks and I nearly bowled over with nausea. The best comparison I can make is that they were eerily similar in taste to a White Castle hamburger (not a favorite). Keep in mind that I didn't try Geno's or Jim's cheesesteaks, so I'm not going to write the dish off altogether, but in my small sample size....FUGGEDABOUTIT...NY PIZZA WINS BY A 1ST ROUND KO.

Review: The Tarry Lodge - The Best Clam Pizza?

After I read the GQ article that stated that the Tarry Lodge in Port Chester, NY had the best clam pie in the United States, I knew I had to try one out.  You see, I love clam pizzas.  Actually, that's an understatement.  I could possibly live on them.  The garlic, the olive oil and chunks of clams on a charred, bubbly crust... nirvana.

I was reared on Lombardi's clam pies, and even as that joint has morphed into a tourist trap with mediocre pizza, the clam pies are still damn good and still set the barometer for me.  So with the hype surrounding the Tarry Lodge's clam pie, it was time to see if a new standard had been set. 

 

The Clam Pizza at the Tarry Lodge

Nik and I ventured to the Tarry Lodge in early September and we ordered up a clam pie as well as their signature pizza which was topped by sunnyside egg, gunaciale (pig cheek) and black truffles.  This particular pie piqued my interest because the yolk of an egg on pizza sent me back to my days in Italy when I would enjoy the "Pizza Capriciossa" at Pizzeria Montecarlo in Rome, which deftly added egg to its pie.

Back to the Tarry Lodge... not to sound disrespectful to those who bow to the altar of all things Batali (he is a co-owner), but I wasn't impressed -- at least with the clam pizza.  First problem was that the clams came on the half shell.  I understand that including the shells guarantees that you're not getting the clams from a can and also avoids drying the clams out when cooking, but I found that picking the meat from the shells to be rather annoying.  When I have a clam pie sitting in front of me, it's meant to go down the chute without any preliminary steps as was the case here.  The other problem was that the clam pizza was incredibly overseasoned.  While I loved the garlic, the oregano was bordering on oppressive. 

 

Tarry Lodge's sunnyside egg, gunaciale and black truffles pizza

The pizza with egg, gunaciale and truffles was eclectic, rich and had the potential to be a knockout. However, we ran into another bump in the road: because the egg wasn't cooked thoroughly on the pizza, it was runny, and thus saturated the crust within a few minutes.  That left us with a soggy pie which was inedible.

I'm not going to make this an official thumbs down because it was only one night and when we return we're going to request that the pizziaola relax a bit with his oregano fetish.  We'll also reorder the egg/gunaciale/truffle pie and see if we run into the same problem again.

I will warn you that the place is expensive and by no means your typical pizza joint.  You actually feel like you're eating in a library.  Should pizza be eaten in such an ambiance?  Well, not for me, but judging by the inability to procure a reservation, the Tarry Lodge is doing something right, even it's just riding on Mr. Batali's name.

Tarry Lodge

18 Mill Street

Port Chester, NY 10573

914-939-3111

Frank Pepe Pizzeria Yonkers - Opening Night Almost Here

Ok folks, the moment is almost here...I can confirm that Sunday Sauce will be paying a pre-opening visit to Frank Pepe's Pizzeria Napoletana in Yonkers next week. From what I have been told, the ovens are already stoked and churning out pies as the crew readies itself for the Nov 2 opening (Ed: how ironic is it that Frank Pepe's is opening on Jonny Mangia's birthday?).

The wait is almost over...visions of clam pies are dancing through my head....

Frank Pepe's new Yonkers location.

Gino's Pizzeria of Bronxville: The Grandma Pie Rocks

Jonny's Take:

To me Gino's Pizzeria of Bronxville NY always represented convenience over quality - it was 2 minutes down the street from my parents so it was a no-brainer to order from there. The pizza never did anything for me (though his meatball wedges have always been stellar), and over time as I developed into the pizza bitch that I am, I abandoned Gino's and started driving to Fleetwood to grab slices from Joe's Pizzeria of Fleetwood. Well something happened in the seven years that I was living in Hoboken, because when we moved back to Westchester earlier this year, my family told me that I had to check Gino's out as he had seriously upped the ante quality-wise. I didn't believe them, and dear reader, I was wrong. Not only does he offer an assortment of nouveau slices - chicken/caesar salad, wheat pie, white slice with mushrooms, etc - but he offers one of the best Grandma pizza slices I have tasted. (Thanks to Nikki for discovering this). Better yet, the Grandma pie tastes better and is less expensive ($18) than that offered by local rival A Mangiare ($25...are you nuts??!!).

Gino's Grandma is light, tomatoey, and not filled with leaden cheese. Bravo Gino!

Landscape of Gino's Grandma slice.

Another shot of Gino's Grandma slice.

 
Nikki's 2 cents:

Didn't want to take the spotlight away from the pizza-obsessed Jonnymangia, but this was a grand slam find of mine one afternoon as I was perusing the Gino's menu for something to serve a lunch guest.  Here's why it was the best store bought Grandma-style pie I'd ever had: all of the ingredients were obviously fresh, from the perfectly cooked mozzarella cheese to the sporadically placed, crisp basil leaves.  The tomatoes were plump, tangy and aplenty -- just the way I like 'em.  Finally, a pleasant surprise (because at most pizzerias you just don't find this) was the thin, but substantial, crust brushed with extra virgin olive oil, which gave it a taste all of its own.  Meaning, there would've been a party had I just served the crust!  I like a pie to have some presence of good olive oil to bring together the crust, cheese and sauce, and I think this pie was right on the money with that.  Either of my persnickety grandmas would approve!

 

Gino's Grandma slice is sporting some tangy tomatoes.

What's a Grandma pizza? Check out one spin on the origin here.